Demon4x4.com

Yea, iI'm still alive.

Ok, so to answer question on the wiring between auto an manual

91-94 XL, XLT, Eddie Bauers, and all sports cam prewired for a manul trans in the sense of having a connector for something called a triple function clutch switch. on automatics, there is a jumper installed in the connecotr that allows the 6 circuits that it controls to be wired in an always closed position. on manual transmissions, this connector is hooked up to the actual clutch switch installed on the clutch cylinder pushrod under the dash. anywho, on limiteds, this connector is not present since ford nevered offered the limited with a manual transmission option and the dash harness was exclusive to the limited anyway, ford just deleted the 6 circuits. what are these circuits? ill tell you.

as i said, the triple function clutch switch has 6 wires controlling 3 circuits (hense the names).

1st) there is a circuit that controls the starter solenoid activation wire. in an auto, this circuit is unbroken because of the jumper that is already installed. in a manual, the clutch must be pushed in in order for voltage to pass from the ignition switch (hot in start) to the starter solenoid on the fender apron. if the clutch is not pushed in, this circuit is open (no continuity) and thus, voltage will NOT pass to the starter and in essence, the vehicle cannot be started without the clutch being pressed in. On stripe, i isolated the R/LB wire under the dashing going to the starter solenoid, cut it, and ran it to the two circuits on the newly installed triple function connector.

2nd) cruise control deactivation circuit (two wires). on an automatic, this circuit is always closed via the jumper witch but on a manul, the is normally open until the clutch is engaged, at which point the circuit closes and the crusie control (if on) is deactivated, similar to pressing the brake pedal or pressing the off switch on the steering wheel. on Stripe, i founf the light green wire going to the curise control amplifier, cut it, and ran it to the triple function connector under the dash

3rd) pcm input (two wires). On an automatic NON-LIMITED, this cicuit is in the jumper switch and stays normall closed. on a limited first gen, this circuit is deleted entirely. on a manual, this circuit is normally open until the clutch is enaes which closes the circuit and sends a ground signal to the pcm telling it the clutch is pushed in. think of it as a fail safe for the pcm not to start the truck if the clutch is not engaged. On Stripe, i added these two circuits to the engine harness, passed them through connector C140 (the round firewall connector) and ran them to the newly installed thriple function switch connector.

and thats it for under the dash and getting the triple function connector to work. now i moved to the wiring under the truck in order to make the manual trans happy and the automatic based pcm happy. on an auto trans, there are 8 wires running to it. three for the shifting (one hot in run, one for the 3-14 shift solenoid, and one for the tcc lockup solenoid) and five for the park/neutral safety switch (one for hot in neutral for electric transfer cases, two for the start circuit, and two for the reverse lights).
on a manual trans, there are only 4 wires total - two for the reverse lamps and two for the clutch pressure switch (another switch to tell the pcm when the clutch is engaged. so, here is what i did:

reverse lamps - BK/PK and P/O - both trans use same colors and circuits, so i just soldered them together - easy
starter circuit - since there was no more park/nuetral safety swith, i just soldered the PK and R/LB wires together, thus making that part of the circuit permantely closed.
ground in neutral for transfer case - not needed since we are going with a manual shift

and thats what i did. pretty easy stuff.

So for mine, a first gen, since both pigtails would have been there (one each for Auto and manual trans), but I'm using neither, what would you say would have had to happen to make the PCM happy? I know the Nuetral safety switch is still in there, because, even though my column shifter (I switched to a trans-mounted column shifter)does nothing else, it won't start (or let me remove the key) without it being in the parked position.

we can use the chevy foctory switch which im sire is on the auto tranny somewhere and intergrate that into the ford harness so the park nuetral safety switch would 'work' even though it would be a chevy switch doing the work.

last night kris and I finished up the motor bay as far as electrical goes and installed the driveshaft.

Nice. When do you think it'll be running under its own power?

end of the month hopefully.

Yes as Russell said by the end of the month. I'm estimating about $400 in parts remain to get it done right. I could throw old parts in it and get it running but I don't want to have issues so I'm investing now in quality parts

Which parts comprise that $400?

the bulk is a new radiator and a/c condensor. i told kris since we were tearing everything drivetrain related, that he needs to replace any and all cooling related parts - hense a new radiator. other than that, assorted hoses, fluids, ect.

Which radiator are you going with?

that, kris will have to answer

I'm going with the solid aluminum one that you posted about in your other thread

Still hoping to fire it up by the end of nov but we shall see looks like if not mid December might be more realistic

Last night we tested the electrical system we modified. Everything worked exactly as planned. Along with adding the keyless keypad to the drivers door. I do need to cut the hole in the door still.

I also installed the hydronic portion of the clutch and is working flawlessly.

I havnt taken any new pictures as soon as I do I will post them here

Last night we tested the electrical system we modified. Everything worked exactly as planned. Along with adding the keyless keypad to the drivers door. I do need to cut the hole in the door still.

I also installed the hydronic portion of the clutch and is working flawlessly.

I havnt taken any new pictures as soon as I do I will post them here

I'm not really familiar with manuals, but what is hydronic, and how is it different from non-hydronic? To your first point about the electrical being modified, is that comprised of the auto to manual conversion wiring, or more than just that?

hy·dron·ic
hīˈdränik/
adjective
1.
denoting a cooling or heating system in which heat is transported using circulating water.

Ok, so it's a water cooled clutch? What does it use for a pump?

Instead of a cable to move the clutch in it uses a fluid master cylinder and slave. The hydrolic force to push the clutch in and out

Oh, so hydraulic, not hydronic?

Also the tests of the electrical was testing the starting systems and the and clutch switches, like the neutral safety.

We also tested the lights reverse and dash 4x4 lights

Dang, I was kind of thinking a water cooled clutch would be interesting. My brother built a water cooled PC tower recently. Pretty sick.

Sorry no water cooled clutch.

I did finish cutting out the hole for the keypad though.

And the interior is starting to come back together!

Nice, what all does that give you, besides keyless entry?